How To Keep Grass And Weeds Out Of Flower Beds The Secrets of Growing Great Tasting Vegetables

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The Secrets of Growing Great Tasting Vegetables

Growing vegetables is one of the most enjoyable and enjoyable activities you can do in your garden. The excitement of planting them, watching them grow and picking the produce is the main reason people keep trying, even though pests and diseases are competing with you. Proper soil preparation is the secret to success in growing vegetables. Every time you plant a new crop, you must bring in compost, animal manure, blood, bones, and potash. If you don’t, your vegetables will be weak and susceptible to disease.

Unfortunately, much of our knowledge of what works and what doesn’t has been lost because it hasn’t been passed down through the generations. Well don’t despair, you can create your own knowledge bank and the way to do it is through trial and error. And I’m one of those people who didn’t really pay attention to what my dad was doing, so I had to work it out myself by giving it a go.

The rewards of growing vegetables are huge, but it requires a lot of attention to get the best results. The idea with vegetables is to grow them very quickly and harvest them, unlike other plants that take years to grow. Although some of them are perennials, they are best treated as annuals.

Soil pH for growing vegetables

The pH of your soil is very important. Some vegetables like an alkaline pH like sweet potatoes and others like an acidic pH like spinach. But many plants will grow within a pH range between 6-7. I’ve included a chart so you can see the range each vegetable can tolerate. If the plant is growing healthy, then there is nothing wrong with the pH of your soil and you do not need to change it.

Vegetable		Optimal pH	       Vegetable	               Optimal pH

Artichoke(globe) 5.6-6.6 Asparagus 6.0-7.0
Beans 6.0-7.0 Beet 5.6-6.6
Broccoli 6.0-7.0 Brussels sprouts 6.0-7.0
Cabbage 5.6-6.6 Cantaloupe 6.0-7.0
Carrot 5.0-6.0 Catnip 5.0-6.0
Cauliflower 6.0-7.0 Celery 6.0-7.0
Chard 6.0-7.0 Chili pepper 5.0-6.0
Chives 5.0-6.0 Cucumber 5.0-6.0
Dill 5.0-6.0 Eggplant 5.0-6.0
Garlic 5.0-6.0 Kiwi 5.0-7.0
Leek 5.0-6.0 Lettuce 6.0-7.0
Mint 6.0-7.0 Mushroom 7.0-8.0
Okra 6.0-8.0 Onions 5.0-7.0
Parsley 6.0-8.0 Parsnip 5.0-7.0
Peas 5.6-6.6 Peanuts 5.0-6.0
Peppers 6.0-8.0 Potatoes 5.8-6.5
Pumpkins 5.0-7.0 Radish 6.0-7.0
Raspberry 5.0-7.0 Rhubarb 5.0-7.0
Rutabaga 5.0-7.0 Shallots 5.0-7.0
Spinach 5.0-7.0 Squash 6.0-7.0
Sweet corn 6.0-7.0 Sweet potatoes 5.0-7.0
Swiss chard 6.0-7.0 Tobacco 5.0-7.0
Yam 6.0-8.0 Zucchini 6.0-7.0

Crop rotation

The hard part is applying the above knowledge and putting crop rotation into practice.

Crop rotation is moving each crop to the next bed, not planting the same crop year after year in the same bed. This helps reduce the build-up of pests and diseases.

For example: if you plant onions in a bed that was previously occupied by tomatoes, then you will need to add a dose of lime. After onions, you can plant peas and beans, which also like alkaline soil. Peas and beans are legumes and fix nitrogen from the atmosphere into the soil, which becomes available to leafy vegetables such as turnip greens, lettuce, broccoli or cauliflower that have high nitrogen requirements. After that, you can plant a root crop like carrots, which don’t need a lot of manure or nitrogen.

To revive the garden bed, you can leave it fallow (rest) and plant green manure of clover, legumes (peas, beans) etc., and when they are 50 cm high, bury them back into the soil.

Watering

Water often and abundantly. There is no such thing as a drought tolerant vegetable garden. Drip or pore irrigation is the best type of irrigation system because the water goes straight to the roots of the plants. Do not water overhead, as it causes fungal diseases. Mulching with pea, alfalfa or sugar cane straw is an excellent idea because it suppresses weeds, reduces evaporation and decomposes over time and improves soil structure.

Vegie Patch aspect

Consider Aspect – North, South, East, West Vegetables do best in a north or west aspect.

Consider the light – vegetables need lots of sun all day.

Remove all weeds, especially meadow and kikuyu grass. If you raise the bed, the grass will grow through the soil and take over.

Place the edges

Dig up and add cow manure/compost/blood and bones/potash

Determine a location for each crop

Make furrows – dig with your shovel and put soil on top of the soil. This creates a mound on which you plant your seedlings.

Planting

Staking – It is best to do this when planting. Plants like tomatoes need a stake, and beans and peas need some sort of trellis to climb on. So are pumpkins!

Water the vegetables using a watering can with added liquid fertilizer such as Maxicrop or Seasol (2 caps per 9 litres). This will help them to overcome the shock after transplanting and to develop roots quickly.

Creating paths helps reduce compaction and allows you to pick vegetables easily.

Beginning

When you first start growing your own vegetables, buy them as seedlings. Once you learn how to grow (and have some success), you can start collecting your own seeds or buy seeds. Growing vegetable seeds requires heat/sterilized containers and seed growing mix, water, transplanting seedlings into containers or planting them in the garden. Many vegetables do not like transplanting, so these types are planted directly in the flower bed. In colder climates, tomatoes are best started in a warm apartment.

Environment

When planning your vegetable garden you need to understand the requirements of each vegetable. For example, in mild climates, tomatoes are summer crops and broccoli and cauliflower are winter crops. In the vegetable growing tables, check when you can plant your vegetables. Some plants are frost tolerant, so don’t plant them until all frosts have passed. Melbourne Cup Day (first Tuesday in November, Australia) is said to be a good day to plant frost sensitive vegetables. Some plants like tomatoes do not like summer temperatures above 32C and therefore do not bear fruit. During the hottest part of the day, you may need to put a shade over them.

Wind can also be a big problem as it dries out the soil and can break your vegetables. Make sure you plant your vegetable garden in a sheltered area away from wind and salt-laden winds.

Planting vegetable seeds

How deep into the soil depends on the size of the seed. Large seeds can go deeper into the soil where small seeds are placed on top and sprinkled with soil. For fine/small seeds, the soil (soil particles) must be very fine. Read the instructions on the back of the seed packet, as they will tell you how deep to plant the seeds. Some seeds, like carrots, can be planted directly in the vegetable garden, while others can be planted in a seed container. Water the seeds after planting, but be very gentle with small seeds, as heavy watering can wash them away.

Fertilization of vegetables

Vegetables need a lot of nutrients because they grow quickly. They need to be fertilized with a liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks with products like Maxicrop/Seasol or worm casting fluid etc. Make sure the worm fluid is 1/3 worm fluid 2/3 water or it will kill the plants as it is very strong.

It is important to understand how nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium promote growth. Nitrogen is responsible for leaf growth, phosphorus promotes root growth, and potassium is responsible for flowering and fruiting. When preparing the soil, you have to think about which part of the vegetables you eat and adjust how much and which nutrients you need to introduce into the soil. For example, if you’re growing carrots, you’ll need to get some nitrogen in, but not too much or you’ll get too much leaf growth and the root will branch. As carrots are root vegetables, adding superphosphate is a good idea. Potash is not needed because you don’t want the carrots to flower.

Growing vegetables can be very rewarding, but it requires a lot of attention. There is nothing better than eating freshly grown food that you have grown yourself. If you understand your soil and the pH requirements of each vegetable, you are more likely to succeed. My next article will discuss the battle between pests and diseases. I urge you not to despair if it seems that you are being beaten by pests and diseases. Every gardener has the same problem.

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